To make mince pies…

A few posts ago I gave the recipe for Mrs Beeton’s mincemeat, so I thought it only right to give a little instruction in making mince pies. I have to tell you that it is really worth the trouble of making your own mincemeat and mince pies – any bought ones are incomparable and always too sweet. The secret to an excellent mince pie is two-fold: you need homemade mincemeat and you need shortcrust pastry that is made with half butter and half lard. many people recoil in horror these days at thought of using lard, but it isn’t that bad really, at least not in small doses.

A recipe by Roger Twysden from the times of Charles I (c. 1640) says that larger Christmas pies were also made using a mixture made of meat, sugar, dried fruit and spices. He then says: “put them in coffins or pyes, and bake them”. The word coffin was used to describe the pastry-shell of pies. The reason they were called coffins is because, in earlier times, the pastry simply served as a casing for the meat to be cooked; the pastry actually being inedible itself. They weren’t actually coffin-shaped, except for the Christmas Pie as Charles Dickens, writing in 1877, tells us: ‘ The coffin shape…is not now familiar to us. There is good reason to believe that, in old times, the form was symbolic of the manger at Bethlehem; and that Christmas Pie, whether mice or not, had religious as well as a gastronomic association with this particular season.’

For more typical mice pies, these are Jane Grigson’s instructions, and they are excellent.

Roll out your pastry and use cutters to line small tart tins. Add a teaspoon of the mincemeat – not too much though the suet and sugar expands quite alot. Use some beaten egg to glue on lids of pastry, pinching as you go. Lastly brush the top with more egg, make a little cross in the top of the pie so steam can escape and sprinkle with a little sugar. Bake at 220⁰C (425⁰F) for 15 to 20 minutes. Eat warm or cold. If you are feeling extra-Christmassy and if your stomach can take it, add a blob of brand or rum butter. Personally I go for a blob of lightly whipped cream or even some custard if any is to hand.

7 Comments

Filed under Christmas, food, history, Nineteenth Century, Puddings, Recipes, Teatime, The Victorians

7 responses to “To make mince pies…

  1. Those look fabulous. As soon as I finish making my mincemeat, I’ll give them a try. The mincemeat may not get its full resting time this year!

  2. buttery77

    Great stuff – let me know how they go!

  3. This girl is in no way afraid of lard. I bought a tub of Mangalitsa lard and absolutely love it. Mince pies are the best and yours look lovely. Happy Holidays!

    • buttery77

      Good stuff! It’s amazing what a bit of lard, dripping or suet can do to food. Unless there’s vegetarians about, my pastry always has a bit of lard in it. There’s no going back, really. Glad you liked the post.
      Merry Christmas!

  4. Interesting as ever. Personally I go for all lard and brandy butter. Then scoff. This year I made some with a top of frangipane (I saw it on telly). Very nice but not rugged enough to be a proper mince pie. You really need that shortcrust crunch when the top bit hits the bottom bit and the mincemeat shoots out of the sides.

  5. Pingback: Jane Grigson’s Orange Mincemeat | British Food: A History

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